Happy Anniversary Revi!

What a difference a year makes!  As we left Hopetown last Thursday and made it into Black Sound, in Green Turtle Cay, we realized that Revi's first year anniversary was upon us - quite a milestone.  We bought her on May 27, 2010 in Penatang after a grueling 6 hour test run.  Two greenhorns with exactly 14 days of experience in trawler chartering, we had more enthusiasm than actual boating competence.  Well, at least speaking for myself anyway.  Scott was born to do this really. 

If poor Revi could talk.  The things she's been through:  testing her limits as we were discovering ours at the same time.  She was on the hard for 2 years (i.e. dry storage out of the water) and hadn't left the safe confines of Georgian Bay in many years. 

I wonder how felt as we began our first travels by locking up and down 74 locks in 21 days along the Trent-Severn Waterway, Oswego and Erie canals.  Oh the bumps and bruises she suffered on that leg of the journey as we desperately tried to sort out bumpers and lines.   The days were indeed long as we pushed to New York City before summer holidays were over and before hurricaines Earl and Fiona could find us.

She was a real trooper and showed how "salty" she was on the NYC to Norfolk leg - a merciless, sometimes terrifying journey with two boys, no cook, no GPS, and lots of chocolate. 

Revi likely never felt snow or ice along her hull.  She certainly didn't expect to feel it in Virginia or North Carolina, but her strong heaters kept her crew safe and warm (at least when they were sensible enough to be inside the boat).  What a sigh of relief she must have expelled when we finally reached Florida end of January.  How she must have delighted at the dolphins who frolicked in her wake.

And in March, when she finally crossed the cerulean blue waters of the Atlantic to The Bahamas, she was free to breathe lighter still, with crystal clear waters beneath her and ample space to roam.

Revi's been a busy girl, entertaining family and friends.  She's tolerated her juniour crew in good humour.  As the miles have gone by, she runs better and better.  She seems to thrive on the journey.  She's kept us safe while we've built up our competence and confidence.  That's a good girl! 

Revi with her brand new owners

Revi bonding with her new capitan

Revi takes the Peterborough Plunge!  She's not afraid of heights

Revi grabbing a well-deserved rest after completing TSW

Revi guides us along the foggy Erie (eerie!) Canal

Revi NOT impressed in Morehead City, North Carolina

Revi's first sight of The Bahamas

Revi catching a glorious sunset

You in Da Bahamas Now Baby - Part II: Grocery Shopping

While en route from Fort Lauderdale to Staniel Cay during my brief visit home, I had 15 minutes to shop for "meat". Fifteen pounds later and a bag of frozen veggies to keep all cool in my trusty Coleman cooler bag, we were set. Judging by the amount of extra weight coming on board our small charter plane to Staniel, I was not the only one doing her groceries before entering Bahamas.

Finding "clean" meat is not easy, especially on the smaller islands. Often meats are repackaged on store counters or cut by the local vendor before repackaging. We've witnessed this practice. Good fresh produce is not easy to come by either and you need to shop often to find. Many visitors to Bahamas expect to gorge themselves on tropical fruit. Sadly, most of the islands are arid and nothing of substance grows. The majority of pineapples, mangos and all citrus fruit come from Florida or California and are shipped by a mail boat from Nassau, usually weekly. And, you pay handsomely for each item. I guess that's the price of living in paradise.

The best time to go grocery shopping, then, is the day the mail boat arrives. Everyone keeps a close lookout, as if waiting for the second coming. Your day revolves around your trip to the store. If you time it right, you can be in the store as the items are being unpacked in front of you, so you get your pick of the produce. Pineapple and mango go real fast.

Shopping for non-perishables is interesting too. If you see an item that’s close to what you’d pay at home, inspect closely for the expiry date. Chances are the item has long expired. Most times, you can expect to pay 2-3 times more than what you’d pay for most essentials (lettuce, cereal, flour, sugar, chips, chocolate and Donna’s skittles), and a whole lot more for other items. A stick of deodorant can cost upward of $10!

What's interesting is that in Canada, you have unlimited choices.  You shop where you can find the best deal or your favorite items.  Customer loyality can be fickle.  In Bahamas, your choices are limited.  You make decisions about where you shop based on the reputation of the store, and if you stay long enough in one area, the relationship that you develop with the vendor.  Customer loyality is crucial to their survival.  You don't necessarily get any bargains, but you trust what you're getting.  And, you can order ahead special items that aren't normally carried by the store.

Produce and prices aside, grocery shopping is really part of the adventure. You chat with the locals about goings-on, pick up the local paper, and meet fellow travellers from around the world who have a story to tell.  You don't curse the line-up ahead, you simply find a chair, patiently wait your turn and enjoy the experience.

Busy Vivien, owner of Isles General Store SC

 

Here it comes!  Mailboat arrival is announced on VHF



Mailboat has docked!

Flurry of activity at the city dock unloading the  mailboat



Interesting sunset anchored off Highbourne Cay



Back in The Abacos - Little Harbour Settlement

We left The Exumas last Thursday for Spanish Wells, en route to The Abacos.  Using the traditional "pilot" or local water guide, we shaved 1.5  hours off the trip as we meandered through the less travelled and more tretcherous Spanish Wells northern crossing.  We crossed the Atlantic with a minor swell and chop accompanied by an easterly wind and made it to Little Harbour Settlement on the southern tip of Great Abaco Island.  All in all, a lovely day and a successful crossing.

Little Harbour has an interesting and unique history.  The sculptor and art professor Randolph Johnston from Massachusetts' Smith College was disgruntled with what he called the "Megamachine" of industrialized countries.  He was witness to the Great Depression, WWII, and rise of fascism and wanted to isolate himself and his family from what he perceived were societial constraints and negativity, squashing individualistic expression.

He sought out paradise with the intent of devoting himself to his art and allowing his family to blossom under more positive and natural influences of the islands.  He found his paradise in Little Harbour, a relatively isolated part of The Bahamas in the 1950's.  While their life was less than idyllic to begin, they created a paradise which now encompassess a foundry for bronze casting using the ancient wax method, a studio for Margot, his wife, for ceramics, a gallery featuring art from Randolph, his family and local artisans, a full service eatery on the beach (Pete's Pub) and with a beautiful Atlantic Ocean Beach a brief stroll away.   His life is captured by his autobiography "Artist on His Island:  A Study in Self-Relience".

One of the most amazing aspects of their story, was living in a cave while planning and builiding their paradise home and studios.  Yes, a cave, with 4 kids and 2 adults and likely innumerable little critters scurring about.  We enjoyed our visit to the cave and the other natural and man-made wonders of the island.  FYI, the cave is for sale for those who may be interested.

Our next move is to Hope Town to restock then along the northern Abacos en route to West Palm, Florida.  Hard to believe we are now near the end of May.

Trusty pilot Jock leads Revi on to the Atlantic

Land ho!  First view of Little Harbour

Johnston Gallery entrance greeters

Revi likes it here

Lovely path to Ocean Beach

  

Impressive waves crashing on coral

One of 40 modern, colorful homes

Less modern home - entrance to Johnston cave dwelling

Time-out room for bad little boys!

Sleeping quarters, perhaps?!

Treated to a lovely rainbow that evening

What's for dinner?

Cooking on a boat is unique.  Our kitchen set-up includes an apartment-sized fridge, 3 burner stove, toaster oven and a microwave.  And, our trusty bbq (called Sea-b-que).  Sounds great - all the comforts of home.  All within a 6x6 footprint, so I can stand in the middle and manage all the tasks without moving a foot.  That's a plus.

In reality, cooking on Revi requires good timing, flexibility and a good idea of what amperage load each of the appliances carries so as not trip the breaker switch on the electrical panel.  I have a total of 60 amps to work with most days, when we're hooked up to shore power at a marina.  That means I can run the toaster oven and microwave simultaneously, but don't think about plugging in the kettle.  I have a cheat sheet in the kitchen just in case.

Our little stove is 110V, instead of the household stardard of 220V.  If I want to cook anything requiring water, I need to boil it with the kettle first or dinner becomes breakfast.  Any grain (rice, quinoa, lentils) is best if soaked for 1/2 day (or an hour at least) to reduce cooking time significantly.   Canned beans are more practical but take up a ton more room on the boat.  Everything's a compromise.
 
However, most times, we're either moored or at anchor, and we don't always want to use the generator.  So, the bbq gets used most often and the toaster oven (plugged into an inverter for out of marina usage) is always handy for warming things up and making toast.  In fact, I make awesome pizzas and calzones with homemade dough using that little toaster oven.

Sum total of counter space with calzones in prep phase

Meat and veggie calzones - can only bake 4 at a time!

When I came back to the boat last week, I'd discovered Scott's been a little busy fishing - you've likely seen the pics and video.  Scott prepared a lovely breaded and fried Mahi Mahi steak for dinner.  With so much fish in the freezer and limited access to electricity, I wanted to find a really nice way to grill the Mahi Mahi.  Here's a marinade I made up with a nice salad vingrette to go with it.  Let me know how they turn out.  Bon appetit.

Limey and Lively Grilled Mahi Mahi
Marinade:
2 TBSP olive oil
2 TBSP lime juice (or 1 large or 2 small limes)
2 tsp Louisiana hot sauce (more if you like!)
1 tsp garlic powder (or 2 cloves of minced garlic)
1 tsp chili flakes

1.  Mix above in shallow plate with an edge
2.  Add 2 sizeable Mahi Mahi steaks (or any firm white fish) and marinade for at least one hour.
3.  Turn  a couple of times so the fish soaks up the marinade.  If you remember to, use a fork to pierce the flesh so the marinade soaks up a bit more
4.  Turn bbq on high heat; prep the grill with a bit of oil
5.  Sear one side for 2 min; turn over and sear the other side as you turn down heat to med.  Cook a total of 4-5 minutes
6.  Remove from heat and let sit for a moment.

Hot and sweet salad dressing
2 TBSP olive oil
2 TBSP lime juice
1 TBSP liquid honey or maple syrup
1 clove minced garlic or 1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp Louisiana hot sauce
1 tsp coriander or 1 TBSP fresh cilantro (if you have it on hand)

1.  Mix above
2.  Add any veggie you want
3.  Add 1 TBSP or two of dry roasted sunflower seeds if you have them

You oenophiles and budding sommeliers out there, let me know which wine pairs well with this meal.

Lovely Staniel Cay sunset





Revi Reaches 5000!

During our recent trip with Donna and Neil to Black Point Settlement in Great Guana Cay, we noted that our GPS mileage was close to the 5000KM mark.  We took time to capture the milestone before docking the boat at the SCYC.

"Not all those who wander are lost"- J. R. R. Tolkien

We did not have an end point in mind, nor a distance objective per-se, but 5000KM seemed like a good time to turn around and start heading back the other way.  Staniel Cay will be our Southern terminus this time round.

Throughout this trip we have held fast to the idea that the goal was to enjoy the trip and not the destination, and with the exception of a day or two here and there, we have enjoyed the experience tremendously.  With that in mind, perhaps we are not so much on our way back as continuing the journey.

Sue Braves THUNDERBALL!!!

As most of you who know me know, I DO NOT like to be IN the water.  I love boating in and WATCHING water, but swimming is not something that comes easily, naturally or voluntarily.  I've been learning to swim as an adult.  To say there have been ups and downs, would be an understatement.  An unprecedented panic attack previewing a man-made underwater cave a few years back was definitely a low point in my swimming career.

But when in The Bahamas, and particularly The Exumas, surpassed only by the Australian Great Barrier Reef as a diving and snorkelling destination, one must muster up courage and dive in.  Well, drop in gently wearing an oversized but secure Mustang lifejacket anyway.  Which is what I did recently, with Scott's ever patient and watchful guidance.

Once I stopped gasping every time I tried to breathe under water with my snorkel and mask, I actually relaxed and enjoyed the underwater scenery.  I'd practiced breathing under water with the snorkel at the cottage, but my brain just can't do it straight away without a bit of priming.

Thunderball, in particular, is a real coup for me.  Not only did I get to snorkel around the natural cave to see hoards of Sargent Majors (yellow and black zebra-like fish) and spectacular coral, but Scott guided me INTO the cave at low tide to see cave, the "Blue Eye" and the contents within.  More Sargent Majors and a gajillion other fish.  

Overall, a fantastic experience and I'm happy that Scott cajoled me (gently) into doing.  For those of you adults who don't know how to swim, LEARN.  Not only is this an essential life skill, but there's so much to see under the water.  It would be a shame to miss out on this natural beauty. 

Guest Entry - Donna and Neil April 24, 2011

Our adventure began on April 24^th. We arrived in Nassau in the early afternoon. We were scheduled to hop on a small 9 seater “puddle jumper”, when we boarded that plane I was fortunate to be invited up to the front and be Co-pilot!! It was really awesome flying in that seat, the view of all the different islands on our way to Staniel Cay was amazing.

When we arrived we were greeted by Scott and Sue! It was absolutely wonderful to see them!! I have never seen my brother looking like a surfer dude before, his hail is getting long and he has these wonderful blond streaks running threw it. Sue looked beautiful, beyond tanned and relaxed. After hugs all around sue was kind enough to go rent a golf cart to bring us to the boat. That was entertaining in its own right. The only cart they had left was one that had very little juice left in it and was deemed unreliable from the lady who rented it to Sue! On our way to the boat only one slight problem. There was one hill that the cart made it only half way up so Neil jumped off and pushed us the rest of the way. It was fun and a lot of laughs came out of it.

I must say when we arrived at the boat I was truly impressed! She is a beautiful boat! Can't say anymore she just is amazing!

We went on a tour of the island after we settled in. Saw all the sites, the Church, the Yacht club, the house that sells bread, There are some gorgeous flowering trees on the island, they never seem to stop blooming. The water is so gorgeous I can't describe the colours of the ocean. It is so vibrant. Where Reviresco is moored there are dozens of nurse sharks that swim all around the boat, there are huge stingrays as well. I got some really nice pictures of those.

Sharks and Rays!

Flower Shot with S&N Blocking them!

In the next few days we had the opportunity to go snorkeling at the “Grotto” It was just amazing, the fish and corals were beautiful, the cave was really cool to, the currant rushing through there as the tide was coming up was pretty strong so you had to continually swim or just get sucked out of the cave. Just outside of the cave there was a school of fish that we learned loves bread and french fries. They went nuts over it! Once we got back to the boat we were off to the pool for a nice relaxing dip and a rinse to get the salt water off. We also went to see the Thunderball, they say it is closed down but I think the locals go in and enjoy it at night, there is still beer in there and pool tables. The view of the islands and the ocean is wonderful from the back on the dock.

Thunderball View

On the Thunderball Dock

Scott and Neil decided that they were going to hunt and find there own conch. Scott really got into this idea, so he created his own tow bar and rigged it up to the dingy so we could drag him behind the boat while he had snorkle gear on so he can see the conch and grab one. Well you all can guess how that worked out.... No conch but a huge sunburn on Neil and I. To add to the failure of the conching the swells were a bit larger on the way back to the boat and Scotts dingy likes to spray water on you, well it was so bad that Sue who never dipped a toe in the ocean that day was as soaked from head to toe as the rest of us that had been in the water. Nothing like a 20 min salt water shower! Love that dingy! NOT!!!

We had a day trip to Black Point Cay. So first thing in the morning Scott got Revi started and off we went. It was a nice ride. I had to learn my sea legs pretty quick, but smooth sailing. We anchored out and used the dingy to get to the island lucky for us calm seas no water showers from the dingy.

We rented another golf cart to get around this island. It is the largest of the Exumas except for the Great Exuma island. We met a lovely lady Lilly who rented to us, she gave us a map to follow, that didn't work out, so we just winged it! Saw the school on the island, the one room police station, and a few of the locals that made straw hats, bags ect. I did buy a hat from the local shop, I desperately needed it I was getting tired of always trying to cover up with my sarong. I think I looked great! We also got a chance to go to the Atlantic side of the island, talk about amazing, it is so fantastic, the waves crashing in the spray comes up 8-10 feet! I was mesmerized by it.

Mesmerized!

There is so much that I want to say but I would take up the whole blog. I will add on one more thing SWIMMING PIGS!!!! I will ask Scott to put the video of that on because words can't describe it.

I am so happy to have had the chance to go to the Bahamas with my favourite guy to see Scott and Sue. It was a real Bahamian adventure. You got to see the real life of the people who live there, not your resort perspective. I wouldn't change one moment of our trip. Well maybe the dingy ride from hell...

I love you both very much, thank you for the hospitality and the memories!

Donna and Neil

Gone Fish'n

When you enter the Bahamas you pay your entrance taxes and duties, $300 in our case.  This includes a fishing license.  Now not being the wiser I was not sure what kind of fishing I would be able to do, so I bought a couple of inexpensive casting rods and thought I was good to go.

It became clear fairly fast that everyone was using heavy duty reels and 50lbs line - my cheap rods would not stand the test, so I sat on the sidelines.  As we have been at Staniel Cay for a couple of weeks I would watch the sport fishers going out and returning with Mahi Mahi in quantity – I was envious.

Then along came “Buddy”.  Now most of you know me and are sure I’ve forgotten his name, however, that is his nickname and so finaly I have a name I can’t forget!  Now Buddy is crewing the boat next to us and his boss is back in Canada, and he would like to go fishing.  Alas he has a boat but no gas, I have cash and no boat – we were both in business!

Now I must pause for a moment and say that the seas were calm – noteworthy because if they are not running 6 feet I’m just not sure what to do.  Our first day was a millpond!  Not a gust of wind or a wave to be found.  Well if you can't cruise in comfort at least I was fishing in comfort.

You bait with Balyhoo run through with a line and hook with a squiddo on the end to attract attention.  We were out for about 30 minutes and we got three hits!  Then the action started.  As there were only two of us I had to try and take the video while running and dong a bunch of things at once so the video is a bit choppy, however, you get the idea.

I the end we were able to land 2 of the 3.  The third got caught up in our gaff and spit the hook right by the boat.  Damn shame watching him float away like that.  However, 2/3 ain’t bad as the saying goes.

Scott & Buddy Day 1

We proudly approached the cleaning station with our catch and shooed the Bahamanian’s away so that us Conchie Joes could clean some fish.  It was my first attempt, and it went off well.  The net result was 4 large fillets and about 12 pounds of fresh Mahi Mahi.

Cleaning Like an Old Pro!

One of Four Fillets

Day two went the exact opposite way.  We fished for 4 hours without a nibble and just as we turned to go home we got a hit!  The biggest Mahi Mahi on the dock for the week!  Not bad for a couple of rookies!

Now Thats a FISH!

We sliced it up and fried/grilled it for dinner a couple of nights in a row AND saved some in the freezer for Sue to enjoy when she gets back.


Check out the video!

Good Morning Mr. Lawrence

On Friday morning at 8:30AM a request went out on the Cruisers Network, a radio broadcast for people traveling around the Exumas.  They needed someone to go to the Staniel Cay All Age School (SCAAS) and teach a computer class.  The regular volunteer had stepped down, and they needed someone to step up.

The SCAAS, has 15 students from 8 – 13 years of age.  They have a computer lab/store room.  All in all, not bad really.  What they don’t have is a teacher that knows enough about computers.  That Said Mr. and Mrs. Denny do a lot with what they have and they have overcome significant challenges to provide a good education for the kids.

After the broadcast I asked Sue if she would go with me and help with the class if I could improvise a class on the spot based on what the kids knew how to do and what they could learn.  She was a gamer – as usual.  So off we went at 9:30AM to meet Mr. and Mrs. Denny the two teachers.

After an hour of getting the computers up and running, familiarizing myself with what they had and talking to Mr. Denny about objectives, we decided that making a Mothers Day Card was just the project we would undertake.  It provided them the ability to use Microsoft Word, import Pictures, Format Text and Search the internet for a Mothers Day Poem (for the older kids).

I made up an example and the young kids were sent in to start the class.  Now everyone who knows me, knows that what I don’t know about kids is a lot!  So when they all marched in single file I was a little daunted.  However, when I did introductions for Sue and I they all echoed “Good Morning Mr. Lawrence.  Good Morning Dr. Sue” – Cute in the extreme and it broke the ice!  They were about as attentive as you might expect and everyone made up a card with Happy Mothers Day at the top, a picture of a heart and I Love You at the bottom. Some of the kids customized and typed their own little message and changed the picture for a flower.  All in all it went well.

Building the Sample

Introducing the Kids to the Objective

The Younger Kids - Success!

The in came the big kids.  Their project was much the same, except we added an internet search to fine a poem that they liked for their mom.  That class went even better and we discussed the concepts of multiple applications and how to cut and paste information from one to another.  They all picked it up very quickly, and those that were not quite sure usually had Sue, Myself or another student to show them.

The Older Kids Lesson Plan

After Class Help

Older Kids - Success!

Each student go to print out their card to take with them and I think they were all very proud of their accomplishment.

The Whole School and Mrs. Denny

For our part – we were too!

Donna and Neil Come for a Visit

Now that we were in Staniel Cay for a little while it was a perfect location to have Donna and Neil fly into.  You can walk to the airport, in fact you can walk onto the runway if you like!  Donna even got to sit in the co-pilot’s seat – talk about informal!

No Donna did NOT fly the plane!

We started the week with a little rest and relaxation by the pool and a nice dinner at the restaurant.  Donna tried the fish, but loved the rack of lamb.  While I like fish well enough – the lamb was really good!

The following day we rented a golf cart and took a tour of the island, end to end and top to bottom.  There is a lot of development that has begun, but most is idle waiting for better times and more investment.  That said, there are about 4 houses under construction currently and the island is looking forward to building a new community center with a bathroom and kitchen for functions.

Our First Dinner

Hilltop Home

Sea Breeze Landing

Then it was off for some snorkeling at the Thunderball Grotto and swam with the fishes, you can see some of the video in my last posting.  Donna borrowed Boo’s new under water camera and was busy taking pictures too.  Then we went Conching and for a swim with the pigs.  Yes indeed, beach pigs!!

Donna Swimming

Neil Swimming

Pigs Swimming

Feed Me NOW!

High Speed Conching

Donna & Neil at the Beach

Lost - No Problem!

Spare Parts - However you Travel

Pirate Beach Swing

Donna really wanted to take the boat for a run, so we fired up Revi and headed of to Great Guana Cay for the day.  Once again, we went end to end and top to bottom.  There are some fantastic vistas on the Atlantic side of the island – it looks wild and Atlantic is incredibly powerful as it crashes the rocks.

Great Guana Welcoming Commitee

Garden of Eden

Franken Cart!

Atlantic Vista

Weathered Rock

Donna's New Hat

Donna Drives Home

More snorkeling, eating, swimming and shelling for the remainder of the week and it drew to a close too quickly!

We had a great time together and we were very pleased to host Donna and Neil – they were very gracious guests.