Exuma Reefs

We have been snorkelling a lot since we got to Staniel Cay.  I don't have anything to compare to, but I have enjoyed the snorkelling that I have found and the Thunderball Grotto (yes the same from the 007 movie) is very cool!

There are also Sharks and Rays in the marina that can put on quite a show if motivated with some fish carcasses.  Come to think of it, the fish will go after you hard too if there is a french fry in the offing!  Over all, lots to see and do around Staniel Cay!

This is the highest quality video I can upload with any hope of success, so I hope it looks decent on line.

Sue has not been interested in getting into the ocean, something about biting fish of all kinds, but she has enjoyed the pool and the scenery!

More to come!

Bahama sunrises and sunsets

You know there had to be a whole blog on this topic - didn't you?!.  The Abacos and the Exumas have provided some outstanding vistas.  Let us know which is your favorite.

Sunset at Great Guana Cay - KenBane and Merrily in front

Sunrise at Treasure Cay Harbour

Sunrise in Hopetown, Elbow Cay (pre-storm)

Sunset at Highborne Cay, Exuma Park

Same vista 20 minutes later!

Same sunset at  Highborne Cay - looking North

Sunset Shroud Cay, Exumas

Sunset Warderick Cay, Exumas

Eleuthera to Exuma

We are now in Staniel Cay.  I'm pleased to say that the ride down the Exumas, was "smooth" sailing.  The Exuma Bank is easy riding, although a little choppy in the wind.  Not that it matters to the boat, but I get salt spray all over and it drives me nuts.  I just spent $40 is water to wash her down - man Revi looks good when she's clean.

But I digress.

The water, sights and sounds of the Exumas are incredible.  The clarity of the water, the white sand beaches, the hot days and the cool nights are just fantastic.  Our first stop was in Highborne Cay.  We tried to stay in Allan's Cay, but the anchoring area was full and so we had to see the iguans on the beach at a distance.  Sue was very upset - NOT!  When we turned the corner to get to Highborne, we saw a whole field of yachts.  Some small sail boats, but also yachts ranging in size up to 150+feet.  These large yachts have a hard time finding a place to stay at marinas due to their size so they tend to stay at anchor a mile or so off the beaches where the water is a 20+ feet deep.  We on the other hand, snuggled right in close to shore and enjoyed a lovely sunset.

Having Fun On Private Beach

My Own Beach with Wading Pool!

Sharing My Beach With Sue!

Anchored Along With Us

When we got to Warderick Cay I took the opportunity to do a little snorkeling.  Its my first time at this in the Bahamas and I was anxious to try out my new camera under water - the main reason I got it.  My first few attempts are not all that good, but I will improve with time and subject matter.  In any event I have loaded my first attempt.

There were also Loyalist Ruins on Warderick Cay.  After Sue Death Marched me up a hill at 95 degrees in the blazing sun we found a pile of rocks with a little cement to mark out the remains of a house.  What these Loyalists were thinking of I can't for the life of me figure out.  Other than a fantastic view, this rocky perch had nothing.  No soil, no water, no trees, no fruit, no hunting.  Just a chance to fish every day to stay alive.  No surprise they had to quit the Cay and move on!  Ruins indeed - mostly of dreams and hope.

Death March Survivor - But Just!

Loyalist House Wall

As we are now in Staniel Cay, there are many other sights to see.  Sharks, Pigs, Grottos - I should have some more good material in the weeks to come.

In the mean time my sister Donna and Neil will be arriving in a couple of days and we are looking forward to a nice visit with them.

BTW, for those who are following the mechanical tribulations, the replacement alternator is working just fine and we have been using the generator a lot less now that we have turned off the back fridge and ice maker - it was a nice luxury, but costly at $6/US Gal.

More to come!

Abaco to Eleuthera

The Abacos were a blast - frankly better than some had said they would be.  The impression people gave was that it was more touristy and less natural than the Southern Bahamas.  I really did not find that to be the case.  The people were very friendly, authentic and rustic all at once.  Yes the services were geared towards tourists, but clearly within the context of what the Bahamas can offer and we thought that was great.

All that said, it's time to move on to the Exumas, and our first stop was to take a run from "Near Pete's Pub" across the North West Atlantic Passage to Eleuthera.  We ran from Marsh Harbour to an anchorage near the Atlantic to get a quick get away in the morning.  The problem was there was a 2-3 foot swell that was rolling across our anchorage and after rocking and rolling for 3 hours on the way down, we then rocked and rolled all night - not restful!!!!!!  I say Near Pet's Pub because 3 miles away was a calm anchorage, with a nice restaurant that would have been a much better choice!  We continue to live and learn every day.

When we set out the forecast was for 3 foot Significant Wave Heights.  SWH is defined as the average hight of the top 30% of the waves.  That said, every 100 waves or so you will see one that is about 4-5 feet and every thousand or so you will come across a 6-7 footer.  The predictions were accurate.  However, we had a 3 foot swell coming from the NE and a 3 foot wave riding on top of that coming from the SE.  It created confused seas that built up and dropped off quickly.

The video does not convey the lumpiness as much due to the shock absorbing nature of my holding the camera - but you get the idea.  Remember the anchor pulpit on the bow of my boat is 7 feet off the water line.

Sue continues to be a trooper and we ran 9 hours that day to arrive safely at Spanish Wells in George Cay at the top of the Eleuthera Islands.

The CATs ran strong the whole day and did not miss a beat.  However, when I arrived at the dock and got off the boat I could smell something electrical/rubber/resin burning.  I quickly traced it to my engine room, and then to the Port side, and then finally to the NEW alternator - CRAP!  She was 300F and all the paint on the fan had burned off!  The STBD side was running a normal 150F - so I had found the source of the smell.

It turns out the front bearing let go and the armature was hitting the windings - throwing off a fine dust of metal that looked like snow!  Not Good.  However, ever prepared - I had a spare and after a couple of hours of swearing I had swapped it out and we are good to go again.  I'm anxious to see how I made out and if the replacement alternator holds up.

We don't plan to stay long and will be heading out for the Exumas in an hour - another 6 hour run, but this time on the Bahama Bank - so the conditions should be much better!

I better sign off and get under way - more to come!

Guest Entry - Laurie April 6-13, 2011

Hello Reviresco followers! Laurie here (the aforementioned sister). Just back from a lovely holiday in the Bahamas with Sue and Scott on Reviresco (lovingly nicknamed Revi for short). Vacations always seem to go by far too quickly, but certainly can’t complain about this one. The weather was outstanding, the beaches beautiful, and the bakeries bountiful (cinnamon buns and coconut bread being among the regular local offerings – yum!).

My Bahamian adventure started with a short hopper flight from Nassau to Marsh Harbour where I was happily greeted by two smiling (and extremely tanned!) family members. Great to see Sue and Scott looking so relaxed. Based on my seven-day glimpse of their new lifestyle, I can see why it’s hard not to be!

Our week together was spent in the Abaco Islands (north of Nassau) where we made stops in Man-O-War Cay, Treasure Cay, and Hope Town (Elbow Cay). The longest ride on Revi was between Treasure Cay and Hope Town – an absolutely glorious 3 hours of sun and light breeze. Perfect for scouting sting rays and sea turtles – which I managed to spot on a few occasions, if only briefly.

In terms of weather, we averaged 28 degrees and sun almost every day. And my mission was to come back with a decent tan! While the intentions of my significantly sun-kissed siblings were good, I wasn’t particularly effective at heeding their frequent cautionary reminder, “You’re gonna get red!” This is clearly evident in the photo of the three of us at dinner after two solid days on the beach. Thankfully the hue has transitioned nicely from nuclear to tan brown, so all is good.

Who's Pretty?

The beaches were a definite highlight, in particular at Treasure Cay. It’s hard to do it justice in photos, but Sue captured a nice one in her March 30^th post. Silky white sand and clear, turquoise water –  not a bad setting to spend a couple days in the sun. I also managed to find a few more seashells to add to my growing collection.

In Hope Town, we ended up joining a rather rambunctious game of bingo at “Cap’n Jacks” restaurant. Can’t say we came away with any winnings, but I did enjoy a tasty club sandwich – a notable for my list of top sandwich contenders! The next morning, Sue and I walked off our dinner indulgences with a nice stroll along the Atlantic beach. A lot more waves than the beach in Treasure Cay, but a beautiful treat for the eyes, and ears.

Laurie fits right in

Rugged and beautiful Atlantic Beach in Hopetown

It was hard to say good-bye, but I can’t thank Sue and Scott enough for their hospitality, generosity, and thoughtfulness… and to Revi for her reliability and comfort! Special mention to our taxi driver in Marsh Harbour – a kind-hearted woman named Barbara (aka Agent 99) – who brought us to and from the airport. It’s rare you’re offered a genuine hug from a taxi driver, but this one I was happy to accept!

Thanks again Sue and Scott – love you!!

Lovely visit with Laurie

Laurie had the dubious honour of being our first Bahamas guest. I say “dubious” because having never advised anyone on how to travel to The Bahamas, we weren’t quite sure that she would actually arrive as planned. Our boating friends advised us against boating to Nassau for a quick guest pick-up for several well-headed reasons. The biggest factor, of course, is weather. Boating to Nassau means open water (aka Atlantic Ocean) boating, so timing is everything. So, many visitors hop on the many puddle jumpers linking all the major and outer islands.

So, good-natured Laurie bravely boarded the Bahamasair flight from Nassau to Marsh Harbour, where we were sure to be waiting in a marina, somewhere, most likely. I’m quite certain her confidence level plummeted at one point during her 4 hour wait in Nassau when she asked if the 4:45 flight was on time (the last flight of the day) to be met with a nonchalant “probably, but you never know!”. Always manage expectations, I say.

Not wishing to add to her stress, we took a taxi to the Marsh Harbour International Airport (no joke) to make sure she had a couple of friendly and familiar faces to greet her. Her plane was landing as we arrived. To watch as that sturdy, yet tiny, Dash 8 unloaded all those weary passengers, reminded us of the circus act with all those clowns coming out of that VW bug – the passengers just coming out. Thankfully, Laurie was among them – ready to go with her tank top, shorts and flip-flops.

Light luggage in hand (good girl), we were brought to the Mangoes Marina in Marsh Harbour, by trusty and friendly Barbara (taxi #99 – agent 99 as Scott liked to call her).


We spent a great week together with many highlights:
- Provisioning and boat card printing in Marsh Harbour (ah the hilarity and fun)
- Off-roading in search of Lola’s Bakery for cinnamon buns in Man-O-War and meeting the delightful yet highly arthritic Lola and her trusted, entrepreneurial husband, Martin
- Humouring Scott as he got himself oriented to his new toy – GoPro Camera
- Gawking at the amazing natural and unnatural sights at Treasure Cay beach where we spent 3 amazing days; I don't think those boys from GTC are bringing sexy back anytime soon!
- Getting smoked out at the Bahamas Beach Club BBQ buffet while being serenaded by Brown Tip Rack and Scrape band, featuring little Eddy. The meal was lovely though.
- Diverting course to Baker’s Bay Marina in Great Guana Cay for a desperate pump-out (ah the glamour); pleasantly surprised by the newly developed marina/resort
- Climbing the steep spiral stairs of the Elbow Cay Lighthouse in anticipation of a fantastic Hopetown vista (we were not denied)
- Questioning how a cute, blonde-headed 9-year-old girl was allowed to win $230 at “JACKS” (Hopetown equivalent to Bingo) at a local bar – sour grapes aside, is that legal?!
- Spelunking through coral rocks along the Hopetown Atlantic Beach in search of immobile shells and rocks
- Being rescued by Don, the genteel Psychiatrist from Stuart, when the trusty Johnson 15 that always starts, didn’t start (ah the adventures).  The ice cream from the Sugar Shack was a nice diversion though.
- And lots of good food, great company, and wonderful memories to treasure.

Loved having you aboard Lou – you’re a good sport. Nice tan, by the way!

Lovely infinity pool in Baker's Bay Marina, Guana Cay

Buddies catching up during happy hour at Tipsy Turtle

Bahama Beach Club BBQ and smokeshow

Overlooking Hopetown Harbour and Revi there on the right

I'm NOT looking down!

The beautiful Hopetown Atlantic Beach

Beautiful Hopetown sunset from Cap'n Jacks

Man-O-War Cay

We left Marsh Harbour to explore the industrious outer island, named Man-O-War Cay. This island is close to Elbow Cay (and the quaint Hopetown), and is renowned for its boat-building tradition. In the past, sailboat building and sail-making were the main staples of the island. With the advent of fiberglass boats, the traditions necessitated a change to fiberglass boat building, and bag and hat-making (using canvas from sail).

The original settlers, with the family name of Albury, had the corner on the market. Making up 52% of the population on the island, you now see the Albury name everywhere, including their hallmark Albury 20 and 23 foot flat-bottomed boats – commonly seen in the Abacos. The Cay is also home to Edwin’s Boatyard – aka Scott’s dream shop. It took a lot of effort to pry Scott away from Edwin’s.

In addition to boat-building and canvas bag making, Man-O-War is also known for its baker – Lola. The cinnamon buns are only one of her many specialities, which include sweet potato pie and guava jam among them.

As in all areas of The Bahamas, the locals are extremely friendly and helpful. David, our mooring ball keeper, was a fountain of information when it came to fishing and conking. Scott is determined to catch his own conch still.

Our stay in MOW was brief but eventful and quite enjoyable. We head out with Laurie to catch some rays on the beautiful Treasure Cay Beach. More on Laurie’s visit shortly.

Canvas bag ladies dishing the dirt and doing some sewing

Bags and bags everywhere the eye could see...

...literally filled to the rafters with bags

David paints some old tin roof to use for catching crawfish

The shy and blonde Bella (David's granddaughter)

The very athletic and not-so-shy Michael (grandson)

Prototypical Albury Brothers 20 foot boat

Gotta Have Fun!

Much to my great satisfaction, Sue's sister Laurie has joined us in the Bahamas for the week.  She was also good enough to bring along some goodies.  One of the items was a new Go Pro Camera.  It's a video and still shot camera that can go under water and be mounted in lots of neat places.

I thought I would take a water side view of Revi running in the Sea of Abaco.  Sue was not particularly keen on the idea of me being off the boat while it was under way.  However, she's a great sport, and as there was little to hit in the middle she decided to play along.

So here is a little video of what Revi looks like under way at full cruise as shot from my dingy.

And you just have to know it would not be me unless I goofed around a little besides!

Fun Fun Fun!!

You in Da Bahamas Now Baby!

After being in The Bahamas (officially known as "Da Bahamas") for the last 2 weeks, we've come to appreciate this gorgeous area and all that it has to offer.  There are some unique aspects to the culture and the daily life here.

The Bahamians are a kind and gentle people, not to mention extremely friendly. The majority will openly wave and greet you regardless of how they are travelling - by golf-cart, truck or foot.   Children dressed in their school uniforms are extremely polite and respectful.

Varo (L) and cousin PJ (R) enjoy a dip on the weekend as mom looks on

The food is amazing.  Tons of fish - grouper, snapper and mahi-mahi.  Conch is king though, and like Bubbas Gump shrimp, you can make it anyway you want:  raw in conch salad, steamed, boiled, conch chowder, fried, breaded, conch fritters, and so on.  Cracked conch and fries is the most popular dish.



Uncle Lionel prepares conch salad on the dock



 Boaters are extremely friendly too - everyone helps out one another.  Here, Scott is providing an anchor consultation to a fellow Canadian boater.  With high winds, you  need to make sure your anchor is set properly in the sand and not barely holding in the weeds.

Any chance to try some waterskiing!

The main mode of transportation on the smaller islands is the golf cart - they are everywhere.  They're also on the other side of the street.  Bahamians drive British-style on the left side.  So, you need to remember to look RIGHT when you cross the street.

Fancy golf cart -  must be Trump's

Parking lot of rental golf carts

Phone and cellular service is quite expensive, so for the first time in our adventure, our iPhone and Blackberry are turned off.  Needed to go old-school with a calling card to reach family and friends.

Yes, that's Scott using a PAY phone

Of course, the highlight is the amazing scenary that the islands offer.  In addition to the glorious sunrises and sunsets, the amazing water and sky colors are heartstopping at times.



Endless water and sky.



Hopetown, Elbow Cay

The wind had finally subsided in Treasure Cay after our first real rain storm in the Bahamas.  We learned a couple of valuable lessons.  First, close the windows - much better to keep the interior dry.  Second, don't leave your dingy tied up along side the boat under the deck drains, unless you want to collect a boat load of water - literally!

With those lessons learned, we set off for Hopetown on a lovely calm day, barely a ripple on the water.  We were cruising along in 20 feet of water and watching the coral, starfish and stingrays as we moved along - very cool! 

Smooooth Sailing!

When we got to Hopetown bay we found a mooring ball and tied up for the evening.  We are still trying to work off the meal plan in Green Turtle Club, so a couple of weeks swinging with a restaurant at least a dingy ride away helps to avoid the temptation of fried Conch!

Hopetown is a lot like New Plymouth, but more developed by the tourist trade with a lot of picturesque little homes to rent.

Little Cottage with a BIG Lawn

Cottage with Bay and Sea View

I'm a Goof!

However, the big attraction is the lighthouse!  At 109 feet above sea level with a 5 flash-15sec cycle, it was a big part in making the waters in the area safe for ship and crew from 1865 to present!  In fact, it was so successful, the townsfolks back then tried to sabbotage the building during construction by taking the materials to build other homes to keep it from being built at all.  The reason was economic - the townspeople were known as "Wreakers" or "Wrakers" and would conduct salvage operations for profit. 

When we visited the museum we were told a funny story where the local parish priest conducted his services from the back of the church so he could look out over the reef in the event of a wreck he could put the service on hold so he could be first on site and become the "Master Wrecker" and divide the spoils.  It seems everyone back then had at least two jobs!

The Most Photographed Lighthouse in the Abacos

Atlantic Beach in Hopetown

A Little Elbow Grease Required

Always Right at Home

We will be off to Marsh Harbour Next for our visit with Laurie.